Climbing SALBITSCHIJEN

2 days. 10 pitches. 1 friendship.

October comes to a close. On the Salbitschijen (2,985m) in the Uri Alps, Mo and Nacho find an iconic granite climb. The find friendship and they find solitude – although it doesn’t really start out so lonely…

A herd of goats accompanies them on the approach all the way through the Voralp valley. “I’m not sure whether they hoped for food or mistook us for sheep because of our merino outfits,” Mo comments. Unusual companions maybe, but not unwelcomed ones. Plus, the unexpected companions fit quite well with this project that brings together to climbers – who have never met before.

Nacho Olmedo Manich is a Spaniard living in France. Moritz Oberrauch is an Italiand from South Tyrol living in Switzerland. Nacho is a mountain guide working in the Savoy Alps. Mo works on his PhD at the WSL-Institute for Snow and Avalanche Research in Davos. They share a deep passion for alpinism. They both are ORTOVOX team members. Yet, their paths have never crossed before. But the best place to get to know each other is on the mountain. And the rock is the place where you really, really get to know each other.

The same perspectivE

Nacho and Mo will never find out about the goats' intentions. However, they know that for them the approach serves as a literal way of getting to know each other and building trust. Trust is essential on the ten pitches of climbing up the second tower of the Salbit West Ridge. 400 meters in beautiful granite, “very technical and delicate”, says Mo. Unlike Nacho, he is familiar with the rock and the terrain. “The route is fully equipped with bolts, but you have to climb it free with the exception of the 7a crux. You can hardly use any additional mobile protection and the spots you can are the easier ones.”

The two have spontaneously decided to climb the Salbitschijen. With its jagged ridge and sharp needles, it is considered one of the most beautiful granite climbing areas - and with its five towers, one of the most varied, too. Nacho has had the Salbit on his bucket list for quite some time. For him it's a dream spot, for Mo it’s home ground. “As a mountain guide, you're always out there with strangers,” explains Nacho. “You learn to sense the dynamics of people. Which also comes in handy as an athlete. With Mo, it was so easy to build trust. He knows what he's doing - and I like the way he does it.”

The way they both are doing it is ambitious, but not driven by a performance mindset.

“I’m not aiming to be the best. For me it’s about the experience, about having fun. Mo and I have the same approach, we share the same view on the mountain and that was key.”

Nacho Olmedo Manich, ORTOVOX Ambassador

The place to meet

They have the same passion, the same attitude and the same values. This becomes evident on their way to the Salbit bivouac at 2,400m – an approach that takes longer than expected. “There are two ways up there,” Mo explains. “The longer, easier route via the Salbit hut and the impressive suspension bridge. And there is the shorter, steeper one across the Voralp valley and then unmarked through the gullies of the "Spicherribichelen". Of course, we went for the – apparently – quicker route. Yet, it turned out to be just as both stunning and strenuous.”

The reward, however, comes the next day with the technical slab climb up the granite tower, “one of my favorite climbing styles”, says Mo. Nacho is less familiar with the damp rock, but that's that just what he is looking for: “For me, it's all about getting to know new places, the experience different climbing styles and enjoy the variety of rock. That's what I love. And I like to laugh. Mo and I laughed a lot.”

On the top, the two get close. Very close. Unavoidably so as the peak is narrow. Very narrow. And it is spectacular with jaw-dropping vistas. The gentle light of autumn highlights the snow-capped mountains. “Sharing a moment like this is always something special,” says Nacho. Two days earlier, the two were strangers. After 48 hours on the Salbitschijen, they are friends. Two days with full focus on the sport, on nature and on the climbing partner. “It was all about enjoying the routes,” says Nacho. “The two of us had a lot of fun and shared intense moments.” The mountains – the place to meet.